Observers will have noticed Pringles’ expansion down the chip shelf over the past five or so years. Pizza, Ranch, Chilli con Queso, even Top Ramen made appearances alongside the old guard of BBQ and Salt & Vinegar. But from a high-water mark in 2016, Pringles has slowly scaled back their experiment with exotica, and on a recent trip to CVS I was greeted by the same familiar faces I would have recognized in the more sober snacking years of the early-2000s.

But one of the mutants has survived. After the Darwinian effects of the free market killed off most of the more outlandish flavors, it seems that Buffalo Ranch is here to stay – I had to know how.

The most obvious taste element of Pringles’ Buffalo Ranch is the hot sauce. The “buffalo” flavor actually tastes more vinegary, like Tabasco, than a traditional buffalo sauce like Frank’s Red Hot. The intensity of the heat is low, and I would have preferred a stronger burn. That being said, it is well balanced with the ranch aftertaste. The overall impression is of a vaguely spicy, but pleasantly savory chip – hotter than, but not dissimilar to, Pringles Paprika. If you’re looking for a zesty alternative to the traditional Pringles offerings, Buffalo Ranch is worth a try, but if you’re hoping for some real spice you’ll have to look elsewhere.